I didn’t catch much of the fashion month after New York because of life interruptions, I didn’t see any shows in London, *hangs head* and Milan, and I just about managed to catch one show in Paris. Of course I’ll make time for Nicholas Ghesquiere’s debut for Louis Vuitton, following the exit of Marc Jacobs. Ghesquiere is one of the most, if not the most, important designer of our time…I am loathe to put anyone above Marc Jacobs, who is, in my opinion, the most important designer of our time but Ghesquiere comes close.
First up, Boss, Wu and The Gentlewoman
Jason Wu is earning his spot as one of the great American designers, his place in fashion history has been cemented by FLOTUS Michelle Obama, who wore his gowns to the two inaugural ceremonies and now reside in the Smithsonian. That’s cred of all creds right there because when it comes to fashion, it doesn’t come bigger than the First Lady of the United States. Besides the deep show of support by the celebrities sat in the front row, the more significant part was the collection.
Hugo Boss is a brand known more for their Menswear- sharp tailoring, bold and very masculine and Wu used all of that to his advantage turning out a solid collection. At times it came off as too masculine with the buttoned up, high collar, sturdy feel, but the feminine slant gave it discreet sex appeal. The Gentlewoman. This was a principally refined collection, with neutral colours- blacks, grey, creams, camel, embellishment- these pieces didn’t work as well for me surrounded by all that rigidity, impeccable, stuffy, tailoring which could do with some softening, but on the whole there was a very sophisticated coolness at play. The shoes were sturdy and the sandals simple, nothing fancy going on there but the doctor bags are going to be money makers; astute, severe and rigorously discerning, this is the wardrobe for a women with a particular kind of style, she likes clean, she likes prestige, she likes a simple, she likes minimal but by no means will she skimp on quality. I just wish she would down a few shots let her hair down every once a while.
Ghesquiére; A Genius.
As I’ve stated, Nicholas Ghesquiere is a man after my own heart, an important designer, essential. For his debut at Louis Vuitton, he presented a collection that will appeal to the contemporary luxe client who wouldn’t mind paying a little extra for high fashion luxury. The A-line silhouette was predominant through out the show; the Boss woman is having fun with fashion. It was sexy and tasteful and utterly fashion. Tweeds, the high slit tank leather dresses, the coats, the chunky knit skirts and leather bodysuit…it was all just chic on chic on chic. It had a young-ish feel to it but Ghesquiére is not forcing women to dress like little girls. Fresh and grown, a mix of everyday dressing but in high fashion and what made this even more wonderful was the styling- pin on point perfection.
There was an abundance of texture- suede, leathers, thick knits, prints…the blazers were a smash; so casual and cool and a show of superiority that is Ghesquiere’s calling card. The cut out, orchard print, I’ll call it orchard print, dresses with the flared angel sleeves and leather detail was celestial, in a manner of speaking, the jumpers with the Kilim type print and pretty little A-line skirts that came in suede, leather, subtle patch work, even the belting was nothing but suave. But nothing, absolutely nothing that I saw during this round of fashion month was cooler than the A-Line, high collar dress, with the metallic thread detail. Absofreakinglutely nothing. Super!