NYFW AW’14- Madam Herrera- A Lesson In Simplicity

Each season there is not a lot I don’t like about Carolina Herrera’s collection and of late she has emerged head and shoulders above the rest. Its almost as if she resides in her tower looking down on the rest. Every season, without fail, especially in the past four or five seasons, she churns out a collection that redefines the way we dress up, a collection that can make a woman feel good just by looking at them, makes her look forward to getting dressed. Its a very dressed up collection. Listen, Madam Herrera does not do dress down. Casual Friday? What is that?

Models sauntered down the runway in beautiful geometrical prints on billowing or slinkily cut gowns, powerful shades of red and fur accented separates. At times there was a danger of being overwhelmed by prints because there were so many other details at play and other times some ensembles just looked too weighty on the models, but those were few and far between because even in a simple shift dress there was something especial to behold. The mullah hats were a huge miss for me, it was that moment Coco Chanel’s quote should’ve been adhered to- before leaving the house a lady should look in the mirror and remove one accessory… the hats should have been left behind because the high bun was working like none, even with its Croydon facelift effect. Thankfully, we didn’t have to deal with those hats for long.

Power was in the day pieces, the dresses, a high neck, knee length, wide sleeved, red dress tapered in at the waist needed nothing else because it had such a power of elegance in its simplest form, the printed dresses in different textures nipped with thin belts or sashes, a variety of necklines- high, draped, drop shoulder, round, asymmetrical, irregular etc. The reds and print were most stand out for me, that Balenciaga-esque coat with the deep fur hem, trapeze silhouette and rounded shoulder was pitched perfectly to the Herrera woman. But where Madam Herrera showed her ultimate superiority was in that life re-definening ivory evening gown with the side drape shoulder neckline and a thick velvet belt in deep plum. It was a one two punch- simplicity and elegance, the ultimate piece de resistance in what was a truly heart-stoppingly divine collection.