NYFW Day 7. Technical Evolution and Sweet Colours.

Proenza Schouler.

My only critic of this collection would be that it felt more Autumn than Spring- Summer especially with the outerwear, besides that this was up the usual distinguished standard that the boys have set and we have come to expect from them. Panelling, high waists, wide hems and a softened severe feel. Love the shoes too. Textually this was dense, Crepe, together with the monotone of the colour it felt stark but technically you cannot fault these guys. Paint splatter print especially worked on panelled ensembles, metallics on pleats, in dresses that will appeal to the more fashion savvy come red carpet season. The silhouette served a more demure and strict look, calf length with barely any skin on show save for the crops and splits even so, it was done with such appeal it couldn’t get more refined. The simplicity of the hair and make up pulled this all together.

Rachel Zoe.

This was an accomplished collection from the designer, gone was the over styling, thank goodness, we saw the clothes for what they are. At times this felt a little disconnected with little sexed up nurses dresses and denim, but it was at these times that there was flourishes of freshness that made the collection work. The shining combination of maxi skirt and tank top was pretty cool as was the pea coat styled sleeves dress with leather inserts at the shoulder. Rachel Zoe is keeping on strong season to season.

Bibhu Mohapatra

I love a freshening up of an idea and this was fresh for Mohapatra, fresh and sweet. Stained glass effect was used on garments to great success, especially on a rose pink midi length cocktail gown that could also work for the red carpet, there was a splash of excellent floral print work, bold colours of nudes, blacks, pinks and an especially special aquamarine, refined daywear and especially lovely was an evening gown in rose pink, high neck and long sleeve with a deeper shade of pink flowers adorning the top half…it shouldn’t work, it should’t look so divine, but it did.