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Jason Wu is quickly becoming one of those designers we look forward to come New York Fashion Week, he is fast attaining the Marc Jacobs status of anticipation. Thanks in no small part to his über fan the FLOTUS, he will forever remain on our radar and a bottom line in fashion history. His past collections and solid fan base would suggest that Wu has arrived at the party, VIP table, all access, no questions asked, trimmings and all, but he is just getting warmed up. Let’s get one thing straight; Jason Wu is a designer that knows his customer and knows what she wants even before she knows she wants it. And he sells that idea very well.
For Autumn-Winter 2013, he showed off his ever growing chops in a stellar collection. A mix of hardcore daytime, sometimes overly powerful suits, stiff collared shirts and furs, pretty dresses and glamourous evening wear. The silhouette was relatively uncomplicated and delightfully girly, pleats and flounce in skirts, fly away chiffon that blows with the wind and lace, lace is his calling card. No one works the magic of lace like Jason Wu; in the most intricate of ways, with the lightest of touches, in coats, in pants, skirts and dresses. Cigarette pants a la Audrey, cut to the ankle and tailored, but a touch laid back, a tailored longline tuxedo was simply too divine for words in all its simplicity and there were feathered dresses to go cha-cha in for days. The colours were kept simple; black, of course, white, a touch of caramel, inserts of reds and a darling petrol blue evening dress, so red carpet ready I see it at the Oscars.
Off the beaten Wu path of sexy were the peplum blouses with the exaggerated floating tails over cigarette pants, like marmite you either get it or you don’t.
But what didn’t work; PEPLUM!! God almighty save us all from this trend!!
On the whole, this was a well thought out collection. Sexy and sublime, structured and divine. A flawless finish and entirely gorgeous, exaggerated tails (whispers peplum) and all.